Sewing lexicon

A.

Appliqué

An appliqué is a decorative motif made from pieces of fabric cut out and sewn onto a fabric, held in place by a very tight zigzag stitch all around the edge.

Armhole

The armhole is the opening of the sleeve that will be attached to the body. It is the part of the garment that surrounds the armpit and allows the arm to be inserted. The shape and size of the armhole influence the comfort and fit of the garment, particularly the freedom of movement of the arms. A distinction is made between the armhole and the underarm. The armhole is the opening in the pieces that form the body where you will slip your arm through. The armhole and the sleeve cap will be assembled during sewing.

Assembly

Assembly is the process of sewing different pieces of fabric together to form a garment or other textile item. This step includes preparing, aligning, and sewing the different parts according to a pattern.

 

B.

Backstitch

A backstitch is necessary at the beginning and end of a seam to prevent the seam from coming apart. First, sew a few stitches forward, then a few stitches backward using the “backward” button on the machine. Repeat this at the beginning and end of the seam.

Basting

This involves making temporary seams by hand to prepare the work for hemming or assembly later. Basting is done by sewing long stitches with contrasting cotton thread. The threads are then removed after machine stitching; their sole purpose is to hold the pieces of fabric together during assembly.

Bib

A bib is a piece of fabric, often lined and sometimes plastic-coated, tied around the neck of a baby or young child to protect their clothes during meals. It is designed to be easily washable and stain-resistant.

Bias binding

Bias binding is a strip cut diagonally across the fabric at a 45° angle to the grainline. This strip is therefore slightly elastic, allowing it to cover raw edges (even curved ones) to reinforce them or create a neat finish.

Pre-made, pre-folded bias binding is available from haberdashery shops. However, it is very easy to make your own and match it to your fabric. See our tutorials on Making bias binding.

Blind hem

A blind hem is a sewing technique that allows you to hem a garment without the stitches being visible on the right side of the fabric. This is usually done using a blind stitch by hand or a special sewing machine foot.

Boiled wool

Boiled wool is a wool fabric that has been treated by boiling and felting to make it dense and resistant. This process gives it a thick texture and a dull appearance, ideal for jackets, coats and winter accessories.

Bobbin

The bobbin is a small spool of thread placed in the shuttle of a sewing machine. A sewing machine uses two threads: the thread from the spool (the thread that can be seen “above the fabric”) and the thread from the bobbin (the thread from “below”). The bobbin supplies the lower thread. The thread in the bobbin is usually the same as the thread on the spool, but it can also be a contrasting thread if you are sewing together fabric and lining in different colors (in which case, use bobbin thread in the same color as the fabric it will cover). Filling and threading the bobbin is done simply according to the instructions for each machine.

Tips: it is best to use a slightly stretchy polyester “bulked” thread for knitted items and lingerie.

To make smocking, put elastic smocking thread in the bobbin, pulling it tight as you fill it; the elastic will be taut and will mark the smocking line more clearly.

Box pleats

Box pleats are pleats formed by tucking two pieces of fabric inward to create a decorative hollow.

Bulked thread

Bulked thread is a slightly stretchy, soft thread used mainly for lingerie and swimwear. It is used in the loopers of a serger or in the bobbin of a sewing machine.

Button placket

The button placket is a strip of fabric sewn onto the edge of a garment to accommodate buttons and buttonholes. It allows the garment to be closed and adjusted, ensuring a neat and functional finish on shirts, blouses, jackets, and other similar items.

Buttonhole

A buttonhole is a small slit usually made as a finish to a piece of work. You thread a button through the buttonhole to fasten your project. Most sewing machines have a “buttonhole” program, either in a single step if the machine is electronic, or in four steps on other machines. You can also make a buttonhole by hand.

Ikatee explains how to do this in the tutorial “Making buttonholes”.

Tip: remember to reinforce very thin fabric on the wrong side before embroidering a buttonhole; a thin iron-on interfacing or a piece of organza will do the trick.

 

C.

Casing

A casing is a strip of fabric added or folded in which a cord or elastic is inserted. It is used to tighten the waist of trousers or skirts, for example. It is important to make the casing slightly wider than the elastic or cord. These are inserted using a safety pin stitched at the end and threaded along the entire length of the casing.

Cashmere

Cashmere is a soft, lightweight textile fiber obtained from the hair of cashmere goats, mainly raised in Mongolia, China, and Nepal. This fiber is renowned for its warmth, lightness, and exceptional softness. Cashmere is often used to make sweaters, scarves, and blankets.

Check

A check is a fabric pattern consisting of crossed lines forming squares or rectangles. The pattern can be printed or woven.

Chest darts

Bust darts are specific darts placed between the bust and the side to adjust the garment to the shape of the body on women's clothing.

Corduroy

Corduroy is a type of velvet characterized by vertical ribs or stripes. It is a cotton-based fabric with several fibers woven into the main fabric to form the vertical ribs. It is ideal for sewing pants, jackets, or accessories.

Cotton

Cotton is a natural fiber grown from the cotton plant. Widely used in the manufacture of textiles, it is valued for its comfort, durability, and ease of care.

Coverstitch machine

A coverstitch machine is a specific machine for hemming stretch fabrics with professional finishes.

Crotch

The crotch is the measurement between the top of the back and the top of the front of a pair of pants, passing between the legs. It is also the term used to refer to the part of the garment that covers this area.

Cuff

The cuff is the fitted and often decorative part at the end of a shirt, jacket, or coat sleeve. It can be closed with buttons and is used to adjust the sleeve at the wrist.

Cutting layout

A cutting layout is a diagram showing how to arrange the pieces of the pattern on the fabric before cutting.

 

D.

Darts

Darts are sewn pleats used to adjust a garment to the shape of the body.

Damp cloth

A damp cloth is a piece of fabric (often cotton canvas) placed between the iron and the garment to prevent burning or shining the fabric.

Dobby

Dobby is a lightweight, transparent fabric, often made of cotton or voile, decorated with small raised patterns, usually in the form of embroidered dots. It is mainly used for delicate garments such as dresses and blouses.

Draping

Draping is the way a fabric falls and folds when worn or hung. In sewing and fashion, draping refers to the visual effect and fluidity of a fabric when shaped around the body or used in a garment.

 

E.

Ease

Ease is excess fabric deliberately incorporated into the assembly to create volume or ease.

Edge

The edge is the border of the fabric, usually along the sides of the roll, which is woven to prevent fraying. It is often stronger and more structured than the rest of the fabric. It is used to determine the grainline.

Edge to edge

Assembly of two pieces of fabric without overlapping, with their edges touching exactly.

Elastic

Elastic is a material or device that can stretch and return to its original shape after being stretched. In sewing, it is often used to create adjustments in garments, such as waists or cuffs, allowing pieces to fit comfortably on the body. Elastic can be incorporated into seams or used as decorative bands. It gives garments flexibility and better support.

Elastic or stretch stitch

Some sewing machines offer elastic stitch options, which are useful for working with stretch fabrics. These are essential for fitted garments, as they prevent tearing and preserve the shape of the fabric after stretching.

Embroidery

Embroidery is a textile decoration technique that involves sewing designs onto fabric using suitable threads. It can be done by hand or with a machine and is used to embellish clothing, accessories, and other textile items. Designs are created using various stitching techniques and threads.

Eyelet

An eyelet is a small metal or plastic piece inserted into a hole created for this purpose in a fabric to reinforce and stabilize the passage of cords, laces, or threads. They are often used in garments such as shoes, jackets, and bags.

 

F.

Fabric

Fabric is a textile material made by interweaving or knitting threads or fibers. It serves as the basis for making clothing, accessories, and household items, and can be made from a variety of materials such as cotton, wool, silk, or synthetic fibers.

Facing

Facing is a piece of fabric used to reinforce and finish the inside edges of a garment, such as necklines, armholes, and cuffs. It is often an almost identical copy of an outer piece, forming a kind of lining that neatly finishes the edges and openings. It is sewn inside the garment and often folded or pressed to give a clean, neat finish. Facing helps to maintain the shape of the garment, prevents the edges from fraying and can also provide additional support for fastenings and decorations. It can be interfaced to reinforce it.

Finishes

Finishes are a set of techniques that give a clean and professional finish.

Finishing tape

A finishing tape or bias binding is a strip of fabric placed on the neckline (usually at the back, sometimes all the way around) of a knit garment (e.g., sweatshirt or T-shirt). It hides the visible overcast stitching and provides a clean, attractive finish. This technique can also be used on woven, non-stretch fabric. However, it is less common because woven garments are designed differently and do not necessarily require this finish. + attach a neckline binding

Flat felled seam

This is a strong, flat, closed seam often used for sewing trousers and jeans.

The edges of the fabric are folded over and sewn twice to create a very strong and clean seam. The final seam is sturdy, perfect for areas subject to high tension.

Fleece

Fleece is a thick, soft fabric, usually made of cotton or synthetic fibers, with a slightly fluffy texture. It is used for reinforcement and padding.

Fly

A fly is an opening in trousers with a zipper or buttons, protected by a placket.

Flush

In sewing, “flush” means cutting or sewing very close to the edge of the fabric so that there is virtually no space between the edge and the seam or cut line. This results in a discreet and neat finish.

French seam

A French seam is a sewing technique that involves sewing the edges of the fabric twice to achieve a clean, durable, and perfect finish. First, the edges are sewn with wrong sides together, then turned and sewn again with right sides together to hide the raw edges.

 

G.

Gathers, eases

Gathers are widely used in children's fashion, especially for girls. They are used to create ease pleats or add volume to a garment, or even to add ruffles.

There are also invisible gathers, which are used to sew together pieces of slightly different lengths, helping to reduce the gap in an almost invisible way (the gathers are not visible). This type of gather is useful for distributing ease (the excess fabric caused by different lengths) on the sleeve cap, in particular.

Gathers can be made by hand or with a sewing machine. Watch our video tutorial: How to make gathers.

Glacé

Glacé is a technique used to keep a piece flat by sewing a long seam or a discreet understitch.

Grainline & fabric direction (pile)

Grainline is a term used when talking about the placement of pieces in relation to the direction of the weave or knit. A woven fabric is formed by crossing warp threads (stretched on looms) with weft threads (a shuttle that passes from one row to another, turning around and forming a border called an “edge” at the ends of each row). In the case of knitted fabrics (accumulation of loops of the same thread that form stitches, unlike woven fabrics), the rows also follow one another and form an edge or selvedge.

When the grainline is indicated on a pattern, this line must be placed parallel to the edge of the fabric. This is very important for the drape of the garment and its durability. If you do not cut a piece along the grainline, the garment may shrink in the first wash, be uncomfortable, and fit poorly.

However, you can achieve special effects by cutting across the width of the fabric or in the bias. In this case, it will be indicated on the pattern.

Guipure

Guipure is a thick, textured lace with pretty patterns. Unlike lace, it is made on an embroidery loom on a temporary backing that is dissolved to leave only the raised patterns.

Gusset

A gusset is a small piece of fabric inserted into a seam to allow greater freedom of movement or to reinforce the structure of a garment. It is often used in areas such as the armpits or crotch to improve comfort and fit.

 

H.

Hem

A hem is the double fold and stitching of the bottom edge of a fabric to prevent it from fraying. This creates a clean finish. It is done by folding the edge of the fabric inwards twice and sewing it in place. Hem widths and finishing techniques vary depending on the type of garment and the desired effect.

I.

Interfacing

Interfacing is used to stiffen parts of pieces. It consists of hot gluing (with a non-steam iron) the pre-coated side of a fabric (more or less thin depending on the support and the desired stiffness) onto the fabric to be reinforced; for example, a button placket on a thin fabric or the back of a buttonhole, or a collar stand.

Iron-on

Iron-on is a material with an adhesive coating that bonds to fabric when heated with an iron. It is used to reinforce, repair, or stabilize specific areas of garments or fabrics.

Ironing

Ironing is one of the most important steps in successful sewing! It involves flattening and smoothing the fabric with a hot iron. Ironing is often used before assembly to prepare the pieces of fabric or after sewing.

 

J.

Jabot

A jabot is a fabric ornament, often made of lace or ruffles, attached to the front of a garment, typically a shirt or blouse. It adds an elegant decorative touch and is often used in formal or historical clothing.

Jersey

Jersey is a knitted fabric manufacturing technique; it can be recognized by its knit stitches forming “V” shapes and purl stitches forming “bridges,” knitted with threads of varying thicknesses. It is knitted in jersey stitch.

It can be knitted with natural fibers (cotton, linen, bamboo, wool, etc.), artificial fibers (viscose, tencel, etc.), synthetic fibers (polyester, elastane, etc.) or a blend of these fibers (cotton polyester, cotton viscose, cotton elastane, etc.).

Jersey is naturally stretchy; this quality varies depending on the type of fiber used and the tension of the knit. A jersey with a soft knit and elastane is particularly stretchy. It is ideal for sewing T-shirts, dresses, leggings, pajamas, underwear, and bodysuits. We recommend it for baby and children's clothing.

 

K.

Knit

Knit is a fabric made by interlacing threads using knits, creating a flexible and stretchy texture. Unlike woven fabrics, knit fabrics are generally more elastic and comfortable.

 

L.

Lace

Lace is a fabric without a warp or weft, decorated with intricate patterns and usually made from cotton, silk, linen or synthetic threads. Lace is often used to embellish clothing, lingerie or accessories.

Lapel

The lapel is the turned-back part of a garment, such as a jacket or coat, often found at the collar or cuffs. It is a piece of fabric folded outward.

Layette

Layette refers to all clothing and accessories for infants, generally aged from birth to a few months. It is a term commonly used for sets prepared for the arrival of a newborn baby.

Leather

Leather is treated, prepared, and tanned animal skin used to make clothing, shoes, bags, furniture, and other accessories. There are many types of leather, varying according to the animal it comes from and the method of preparation. Appreciated for its durability, aesthetics and comfort, it can be sewn by machine or by hand. However, it requires special needles and threads to ensure a strong and durable seam.

Liberty

Liberty refers to a type of lightweight fabric with floral or graphic patterns, often associated with the British brand Liberty of London. These fabrics, usually made of cotton, are renowned for their distinctive, colorful, and elegant prints. The term “Liberty” is also used to refer to the specific patterns created by this brand, which are prized for their quality and timeless style in clothing and accessories.

Linen

Linen is a natural textile fiber from the flax plant, valued for its strength, coolness, and comfort. It is ideal for sewing pretty summer pieces such as flowing dresses, blouses, pants, and skirts.

Lining

Lining is a fabric, often lighter than the main fabric, sewn inside a garment to improve comfort, appearance, and durability. Lining protects against wear and tear and sometimes the cold, creates structure in the garment, and provides a more attractive finish by hiding internal seams.

Loops

Loops are small loops of embroidered thread or fabric used as fasteners for buttons or hooks on clothing. They can be embroidered directly or added separately to create discreet and decorative fastenings. They prevent holes in the fabric.

 

M.

Markings

Markings are marks on pattern pieces or fabric to guide assembly.

Martingale

A martingale is a strip of fabric or waistband attached to the back of a coat, jacket or trench coat, used to adjust the waist or add a stylistic element. It can be decorative or functional, with buttons or buckles.

Measuring tape

The tape measure is a flexible measuring tool used in sewing. It allows you to accurately measure flat surfaces, curves, and contours such as waistlines or sleeve lengths. Essential for taking body measurements and adjusting patterns, it ensures that pieces fit correctly in a sewing project.

Muslin

Muslin is a fine, sheer fabric. Made from carded cotton and originating in the city of Dhaka, muslin is ideal for scarves, dresses, blouses, and shirts. Muslin is a lightweight, transparent fabric, often made from cotton, silk or synthetic fibers. It is characterized by its delicate, flowing texture, which makes it ideal for summer clothing, elegant blouses, dresses and accessories.

N.

Neckline

The neckline is the part of the garment that surrounds the neck.

Needle

A needle is a thin, pointed sewing tool used in sewing to stitch fabric and pull thread through it. It is a metal rod with an eye (hole) at one end for threading and a pointed tip at the other end for piercing the fabric.

There are several types of needles for sewing a variety of different materials and stitches.

Non-woven

A non-woven fabric is a fabric created by compressing fibers with a binder.

Notching

Notching involves making small cuts with scissors in the seam allowances of the pieces of the garment. These cuts allow you to manage excess thickness, particularly at corners and curves, and above all help to position the seams correctly. This ensures that curves are positioned correctly and prevents the fabric from pulling and creating creases at the neckline or armholes, for example.

Nylon

Nylon is a highly durable synthetic fiber used in a variety of fabrics. It is known for its durability, light weight, and resistance to water and abrasion. Nylon is often used for sportswear, outdoor items, and technical textiles.

 

O.

Overcasting

Overcasting a piece means sewing a thread along the edges of the fabric to prevent it from fraying or rolling. Overcasting is done by sewing a zigzag stitch along the edge.

Overlock

Overlocking consists of joining two pieces of fabric edge to edge with an overlock stitch. The overlock stitch is made using an overlocker (a special machine that overcasts and cuts the edges at the same time).

Overlocking, like overcasting, creates clean finishes and helps the edges hold better over time, which has a positive impact on the durability of your work.

P.

Pin

To pin is to temporarily secure pieces of fabric together with pins before sewing.

Pins

Pins are small metal objects with a fine point and a head that are used to hold two pieces of fabric together before sewing. They are a temporary fastener and can also be used to secure patterns,

Piping

Piping is a small cord surrounded by bias binding or decorative ribbon. It is a finishing element, decorative and used for accessories, clothing, or furnishings. It is used to create attractive edges or to decorate the junction of two pieces of fabric. The ribbon is cut on the bias, which makes it more elastic and therefore better able to adapt to the shape of the fabric to which it is attached. The piping is inserted between two pieces of fabric.

See our tutorial on sewing piping.

Plackets

Plackets are small decorative or functional fabric flaps placed on sleeve or pocket slits.

Pleats

In sewing, pleats are folds in the fabric created to add volume or adjust the shape of a garment. They can be made temporarily by ironing or permanently by sewing. Pleats are used in various garments, such as skirts, pants, and sleeves, for aesthetic or functional purposes.

Plastic clips

Plastic clips, often used in sewing, are small plastic fasteners that hold fabrics together without damaging them. They are particularly useful for delicate fabrics, thick materials, or when precise fastening is required. They offer a practical alternative to pins, avoiding holes or marks on the fabric.

Pocket bag

The pocket bag is the inner part of a pocket, often made of a lighter fabric.

Pocket opening

Pocket openings are the openings through which the hand is inserted into a pocket.

adjust seams, and align edges.

Poplin

Poplin is a lightweight, durable fabric characterized by a tight weave and smooth texture. Made from cotton, silk, or synthetic fibers, it is often used to make shirts, dresses, and blouses. Poplin is distinguished by its slightly shiny appearance and ability to hold its shape well, making it a popular choice for garments that require a clean, structured drape.

Preform

Preforming is giving a piece its final shape in advance, by ironing or manipulation.

Presser foot

On a sewing machine, the presser foot is the piece that holds your fabric flat while sewing. It also allows the needle of your sewing machine to pass through to sew, hem, or overcast. There are several types to choose from depending on your fabric and project. In general, the presser foot supplied with your machine will be perfectly suitable.

Pressing seams open

Pressing seams open involves ironing the seam allowances open on both sides.

 

R.

Ribbon

Ribbon is a strip of fabric, usually narrow and flexible, used in sewing for various decorative or functional purposes. It can be made from different materials, such as silk, satin, cotton, or polyester. Ribbon is often used to create elegant finishes, such as waistbands, bows, or trims. It can also be used to reinforce seams or add decorative details to garments and accessories.

Rickrack

Rickrack is a decorative zigzag-shaped braid.

Rib

A rib is a strip of fabric or visible seam line that creates a raised or textured effect in a garment. It is often used to add detail and shape to pieces of clothing, such as pants or jackets, where it can reinforce seams or create decorative lines. Ribbing can also be incorporated to improve the fit or drape of a garment.

Right side

The right side of a fabric is the visible side of the fabric, the side that will be on the outside of the garment.

Right sides together or R/R

Positioning pieces with right sides together is probably the instruction you will read most often when sewing. This means placing the right side of fabric 1 on the right side of fabric 2 that you want to sew together.

Ruffle

A ruffle is a strip of gathered or pleated fabric attached to the edge of a garment. These finishes provide a clean and attractive look. Ruffles are commonly used on skirts, dresses, blouses, and sleeves.

Rubber elastic

Rubber elastic is a thin strip of rubber or elastic used to hold or reinforce certain areas (straps, necklines).

 

S.

Satin

Satin is a fabric with a smooth, shiny finish, characterized by its tight weave, which creates a shiny effect on one side of the fabric and a dull texture on the other. It is ideal for sewing evening dresses, blouses, skirts, and accessories.

Satin stitch

The satin stitch is a dense, decorative embroidery stitch used to create raised borders or outlines. It is made by sewing several rows of closely spaced stitches, often used to accentuate embroidery patterns or to finish the edges of fabrics.

Seam allowances

Seam allowances are excess material around the edges of pieces. These allowances are included when cutting the fabric so that the pieces of the pattern can be sewn together.

They are included on all Ikatee patterns.

Seam ripper

The seam ripper (or seam ripper) allows you to remove seams cleanly and efficiently, as its name suggests. It often has a handle and a Y-shaped metal head. It slides over a seam and, by pushing from one end to the other, allows you to undo the seams.

Seersucker

Seersucker is a lightweight, textured fabric, usually made of cotton, characterized by its wavy or crinkled folds created by a particular weave. These folds allow the fabric to remain slightly away from the skin, providing good ventilation and increased comfort in warm weather. Seersucker is often used for summer clothing, such as shirts, pants, and suits, due to its ability to stay cool and not wrinkle easily.

Sewing

Sewing is the joining of two or more pieces of fabric using thread and needles, either by hand or by machine. It is used to create or alter clothing, accessories, and other textile items. The term “sewing” encompasses all stages of the design, cutting, assembly, and finishing of a textile item.

A seam is the line formed by joining two pieces of fabric together. It can be done in different ways (straight stitch, overcast stitch, zigzag stitch, etc.) and is used to join, finish, or reinforce pieces of fabric. Seams are fundamental elements in the structure and durability of a garment or textile item.

Sewing machine

A sewing machine is a mechanical, electric or computerized device that uses thread and a needle to join pieces of fabric together. It automates the sewing process, allowing you to make regular stitches more quickly than by hand. There are a variety of stitches that can be made with a sewing machine, some of which can be done directly with your machine's settings, while others require a special presser foot.

Sewing pattern

A sewing pattern is a full-size template that serves as a guide for cutting and assembling the pieces of fabric needed to create a garment or accessory. This template, usually available in paper or digital format, contains all the essential information you need to complete your textile project, including at least one piece for the front and one for the back.

At Ikatee, we offer a wide range of patterns for women, children, and babies, available in paper format by mail or in digital format to download directly from our website.

Sheer

Voile is a lightweight, semi-transparent fabric, usually made from cotton, linen or polyester, used mainly for curtains. It filters light while maintaining a degree of privacy.

Shorten

In sewing, shortening consists of reducing the length of a garment or piece of fabric. This can be done by cutting off the excess fabric and then making a new hem or appropriate finish to adjust the length to the desired size.

Silk

Silk is a natural fiber from silkworms, prized for its softness and luster. It is used in elegant fabrics such as dresses and scarves.

Sleeve cap

The sleeve cap is the rounded upper part of the sleeve that joins the armhole at the shoulder seam. It can be gathered, pleated, or shaped to create structure, fit, and drape.

Slot

A slot is an opening, usually found in a garment such as a skirt or pants, designed to provide comfort and freedom of movement. It allows the garment to adapt more easily to the body's movements by providing extra space in specific areas.

Smocking

Smocking is a decorative embroidery stitch used to gather fabric. It creates elastic pleats that add texture and allow the garment to be adjusted to fit the body.

Slip stitches

Slip stitches are hand-sewn stitches. They are used to close openings, hems or bias binding by creating an almost invisible seam, stitching successively on one edge and then on the opposite edge. They create a neat finish and avoid the use of machine topstitching, which is too visible.

See our tutorial “Making slip stitches”.

Stitch

Sew by hand or machine using the stitch of your choice (straight stitch, zigzag stitch). Stitching in sewing means sewing a line of stitches with a sewing machine or by hand. This includes sewing pieces of fabric together, making decorative or utilitarian seams, and attaching different parts of a garment or accessory. Stitching can also refer to the action of temporarily holding pieces together with pins before sewing them permanently.

Straight seam

Straight stitching, or straight seam stitching, is a simple and basic seam made with a sewing machine in a straight line. It is used to join pieces of fabric together in a strong and uniform manner, often for basic seams and hems.

Straight stitch

The straight stitch is the main stitch used in sewing. The stitches follow one after the other in a straight or curved line. It is used to join pieces of fabric, create main seams, and make hems.

 

T.

Taffeta

Taffeta is a lightweight, stiff fabric, often made from silk or synthetic fibers, with a smooth, shiny finish. It is used for formal wear, evening gowns, and wedding dresses because of its structured drape and sheen.

Tartan

Tartan is a fabric pattern characterized by squares or crossed stripes of different colors. Traditionally associated with Scottish kilts, it is often used for clothing and accessories made of wool or flannel fabric.

Tension adjustment

Tension adjustment is the adjustment of the tension of the upper thread and the bobbin thread on a sewing machine. Correctly adjusted tension ensures even stitches and prevents the fabric from puckering or curling, thus ensuring better quality seams.

Thread

Thread is a strand of textile fiber used to hold fabrics together when sewing. It can be made from various materials, such as polyester, cotton, or silk, and is available in different thicknesses and colors to suit the specific needs of the sewing project. The most commonly used thread is polyester, which is suitable for all fabrics. However, depending on the fabric and the desired effects, you will probably need to buy others. To get started, a good quality black and white thread is sufficient.

Thimble

Often forgotten, the thimble is a great ally for hand sewing! It protects your fingers and is particularly useful for giving your needle a push when working with thicker fabrics. There are two types:

• sewing thimbles, with a solid tip. You use them by pushing with the tip of your finger.
• Tailor’s thimbles, used by tailors. These have a hollow tip and resemble rings. They are used by pushing with the side of your finger.

Toggle closure

Toggle closures are decorative fasteners consisting of a loop and a button, often used on coats.

Topstitching

Topstitching is a stitch that is visible on the outside of the garment. It is a decorative and functional stitch, usually done close to a seam or the edge of your piece (about 2 mm). It reinforces seams, keeps hems in place, decorates a border line, or flattens a stitch.

Trim seam allowance

Trim a seam allowance by reducing the width of the seam allowance after sewing to limit excess fabric.

Trimming

Trimming means cutting off excess material from seam allowances, such as pocket folds or corners when sewing corners. To prevent the edges from fraying, it is recommended not to trim less than 3 mm from the edge of the seam.

Tulle

Tulle is a lightweight, transparent, and fine fabric, usually made from polyester, nylon, or silk. It is often used for evening wear, wedding dresses, veils, and decorations because of its airy texture and ability to add lightness and volume.

Understitching

Understitching is stitching a facing or lining with the seam allowances close to the seam to keep it on the wrong side.

 

V.

Velcro

Velcro is a registered trademark for a fastening system consisting of two strips of fabric, one with hooks and the other with loops, which attach when pressed together. Velcro is used to fasten clothing, shoes, and other accessories. It is an alternative to buttons and is often easier for children to use.

Viscose

Viscose is a synthetic textile fiber made from plant cellulose. It mimics the look and feel of silk, with good drape and a soft touch, while being more economical. Used for garments such as dresses, blouses, and pants, it offers good drape and shine.

 

W.

Wadding

Wadding is a quilted material used as padding in clothing, accessories, and bedding. Made from synthetic or natural fibers, it is a thick layer of fibers bonded together and sewn between two layers of fabric to add warmth, comfort, and structure. Wadding is commonly used in jackets, quilts, and cushions to provide thermal insulation and a puffy effect.

Webbing

Webbing is a strip of strong material used to hold, support, or reinforce objects. It is commonly used for waistbands, suspenders, and bag handles.

Width

The width of a fabric is measured from one edge to the other, between the two selvedges. It is important for planning and cutting pieces in the manufacture of clothing and other textile items. Common widths generally vary from 130 cm to 150 cm, depending on the type of fabric.

The width should not be overlooked as it determines the amount of fabric needed to complete a project.

Woven fabric

All woven fabrics are made up of threads crossed perpendicularly: the warp (lengthwise) and the weft (crosswise).

Wrong side or wrong side

The wrong side is the inside of the fabric, not visible once the garment is finished.

Wrong sides together or W/W

Unlike “right sides together,” wrong sides together simply means that the inner sides of the fabrics should be placed against each other. This is often used when sewing linings or assembling pieces where the seams need to be hidden inside the garment or textile project.

 

Y.

Yoke

An insert is a piece of fabric added to a garment to change its shape, design, or comfort. It is generally used to reinforce certain areas, introduce decorative details, or improve the fit. Inserts can be incorporated into various parts of a garment, such as the shoulders, sleeves, or back, and are often used to create visual effects or structure the garment.

 

Z.

Zigzag

The zigzag stitch is a sewing stitch made by a sewing machine, forming a line of stitches in a zigzag pattern. It is used to sew stretch fabrics and attach appliqués or decorations. It can also be used as an alternative to the overlock stitch to prevent fabric from puckering or fraying at the edges.

Zipper

Zippers, also known as sliders or slide fasteners, are essential fasteners in sewing and ready-to-wear clothing. A zipper consists of two strips of fabric, each with interlocking teeth that are held together by a sliding slider. There are several types of zippers, including separable and non-separable, metal, plastic, etc. Zippers are used to open and close textile items and to connect two pieces of fabric together.